Camper Trailers Tech Tips

Goldstream Wing 3 Electrical Upgrade




electrical upgrade
goldstream wing 3

We recently purchased a new Goldstream Offroad Wing 3 camper. As it was off the showroom floor we could not specify exactly what we wanted but did have the standard ball coupling replaced with a vehicle Components Hitchmaster D035 coupling. While the basic camper itself is fine from the point of view of chassis, suspension etc. the 12volt electrics are basic in that it is intended to run the 12volt lights only and are something that needed some serious upgrading. I have not touched the 240volt side of things and see no need to do anything there as we would not normally use 240volt and if we had to it would only be used to charge the camper batteries with the inbuilt Ctek charger as everything we have, except the microwave, is 12volt.

The Dometic 90 litre 3way fridge is not connected to the house battery for 12volt operation as at a constant 15 amps it would drain the battery in no time at all. Instead it is wired up to use pin two of the 7 pin trailer plug (Reverse/Aux). There is just no way that the car’s, nor the trailer wiring harness could provide that sort of current through that plug without a serious voltage drop. I had visions of a melted plug or even a fire. The camper came standard with an Anderson plug (non-genuine) with 6sqmm cable wired back to the camper battery for the purpose of charging the battery while on the move. While this may be basically adequate I decided that since 6B&S was used to the rear Anderson plug in the Prado I would also replace the 6sqmm cable with 6B&S. Feeding the twin 6B&S cable through the drawbar proved a challenge.


As the Prado D4D has a problem charging auxiliary batteries due to its 13.2volt ouput from the alternator (Euro standard) I have a Redarc BCDC1220 under the bonnet to charge the auxiliary battery in the Prado but decided to get a second BCDC1220 for the camper so that the battery there would have a decent chance of being charged correctly.


wiring in/out of the front boot

The 6B&S cable from the Anderson plug feeds this via a 30Amp fuse. This is fed directly from the main car battery, via a 60Amp fuse and battery isolator, rather than from the auxiliary battery which would normally be used by most. From this 6B&S cable I also ran a line directly to the fridge 12volt connection, bypassing the existing cabling, so the fridge would have a decent 12volt source when on the move. There are four circuit breakers, 20Amp on solar input line, 50Amp on line from car, 50Amp on line to the fuse panel and 50Amp to the Auxilary in/out line.

I have also installed a short 6B&S cable via a 50Aamp circuit breaker (auxilary line) from the battery to an Anderson plug so that I can plug in a second battery, eg. car aux, or charge the battery from another source.


solar input & 12volt near the front of the camper 12volt marine socket near the fold down table

As we have a 125Watt solar panel I installed our trusty Plasmatronics PL20 solar regular next to the Redarc. This is fed from an Anderson plug on the side of the camper. As our solar panel does not have a regulator built into it (I prefer the regulator close to the battery so there is little voltage drop) I have made up a portable 10Amp regulator that can be used if I want to charge to car Auxilary from the panel or the camper battery if the PL20 were to fail.


all battery load goes through the PL20 and feeds back to a new fuse panel in the camper

fuse panel with inbuilt negative bus

The fuse panel feeds the eight 12volt outlets that I have installed (five marine cigarette sockets and two merit style). The merit sockets, one inside and one outside, are for the Waeco drinks fridge if removed from the car. All cabling is 4sqmm for short runs and 6sqmm for longer runs. This should keep the kids and their endless electronic devices they need to charge, happy. I also replaced the pathetic cabling to the water pump with 6sqmm cable and also included an on/off switch to stop it ‘cycling’ at night. Much improved now.

fridge fan switch, internal merit socket and water pump switch

The whole wiring job was done keeping in mind any possible upgrades in the future. Total cost is hard to estimate as I already had many of the items. The cabling was expensive as 6B&S cable is quite pricy given the amount of copper as well as the 6sqmm and 4sqmm cable used. I estimate I spent around $1100 for PL20, Redarc BCDC1220, cable, fuse panel, breakers, terminals, Anderson plugs, 12volt sockets etc. Plus untold hours of my time. All Anderson plugs used are genuine as I found out the hard way that cheaper versions can and do fail. Main suppliers of parts were Dynamic Solar Solutions and Springers in Qld.


Thanks to Kevin Beckwith for this article



january 2012